… and it was fabulous.
… and I can’t wait to go back.
… and it’s made of almond milk and
rainbows.
… and secret gin joints.
… and really you should go.
... an almond milk chai tea latte with cinnamon on top. It's official: Cape Town is made of joy and all that is good in this world. |
There was so much happening at work with
audit season right before we left that I haven’t been able to sit down and
write non-legal stuff even once. It’s actually really unfortunate, because I
have taken a metric TON of photos that I’m really keen to share. So I need to
be fair and warn you… this is a masive post.
Looking up at the Table Cloth on Table Mountain. |
1/ Knysna
Chances are high you took one look at the
name of this little cottage-and-fishing-holiday-town and thought ‘kuh-‘…
‘kin-‘… ‘cuck this*, that town with a K’. I’m with you. I was also concerned
about anyone asking me where I was going in such a way that I would have to
attempt pronouncing the place out loud. Really, it sounds much simpler when
it’s said with a little creative thought. Nye’s-na. ‘Nye’ like Bill Nye, the
Science Guy!, and ‘na’ like ‘na-uh’. Congratulations! Put an ‘s’ in between the
two, and you’ve got Knysna.
*Nope, this is not a spelling mistake. It is my very favourite Afrikaans profanity, and highly appropriate in that setting. I sincerely hope you are enjoying this particular piece of cultural integration I am experiencing.
Knysna itself is cute, and there are coffee
shops, and wifi, and restaurants with loads of pretty colours and delicious
foods. Really if you’re in Knysna though, it’s so that you can see everything
that’s outside the town. The hiking along the coast here is pretty unreal, and
it’s that that I’d recommend first and foremost about the area. There are all
these huge rust-red mountains that run straight up to the blue blue ocean,
which is of course frothing with white seaspray because it’s meeting all of
those aforementioned red cliffs. On top of that, everything is draped in deep
jungle green, or the lighter sage colours of the fynebos and lowveld.
It is unreal.
There are also some pretty cool things
within easy driving distance of Knysna that you clearly need to know about.
Like seals. And elephants.
Possibly my favourite photo of Kelsey. In which she dramatically depicts her exhaustion due to excessive hiking by collapsing on the nearest available (ahem... conveniently tilted) tree. |
The single biggest personal goal of my time
in SA is to dive. This region is a mecca for shark diving, and for diving
generally. I’ve run into rough luck so far as seeing sharks (entirely due to
weather, please don’t panic, I haven’t been nibbled), but I had a blast with a
colony of cape fur seals in the town of Plettenberg.
If you get the chance to dive with seals,
you should definitely do it when the pups are just old enough to be considered
teenagers. At this point, all the guide boat has to do is make a pass in front
of the colony as it sits up on the cliffs (a safe distance back, you don’t want
them to panic and hurt the pups), and then tip off the boat into the water and
hang out about 3m down.
A zoom-in from the dive boat at the seals on the cliffside. |
Right towards the end of the dive, another
pup (maybe the same one? I have no idea) took a mouthful of my fin and tried to
bring it back to the colony with her. We had a firm discussion – which mostly
consisted of me attempting to pull my fin out of her mouth – about how her
behaviour was really very rude.
Other than hiking and seals, there’s an
amazing elephant sanctuary just outside of Knysna that I’d also recommend.
Kelsey, one of the other interns and I, spent a lovely afternoon feeding,
walking around with, and taking dozens and dozens of photos with orphaned
elephants.
At first I wasn’t so sure about animal
sanctuaries. You hear all sorts of horror stories in North America about how
atrocious foreign animal sanctuaries are. The lions are being sold for canned
hunting, big cat cubs are over-stimulated due to the greedy capitalists putting
the wants of tourists over the needs of the animals, it must be terrible because PETA said so! In reality, I for sure
believe that that happens, and I am extremely picky about which animal
attractions I go to specifically because I don’t want to contribute to
something comparable to a Shriner’s circus. Here in SA, mostly I’ve been very impressed.
The Knysna Elephant Park is a great example of this.
This sanctuary only takes in orphaned
elephant calves, and with the ivory trade in full swing there is plenty of
demand for that service. They take in any calf offered to them, regardless of
the calf’s state of health. That means that there are some pretty serious vet
bills that can accumulate for these guys. Further, the park (and many like it)
don’t receive any funding from the government. It forces the parks to rely on
donors, and specifically on the tourist traffic that comes through the Eastern
Cape all the time. I have zero issue paying to spend an afternoon walking in
and around elephants while they strip leaves off a tree, or happily sniff out
fruit in my hand with their adorably-rough-and-somewhat-hairy trunk tips.
I’m especially willing to do so after the
guide answered my (ahem… dozens of) questions about the park. How many
elephants are there? Near 50.
Do they see humans every day? Nope, they’re
on a rotation system.
What if the elephant isn’t into tourists?
Then they’re paired with another elephant and released onto a reserve park
where there is a lack of elephants and the staff there are hoping to repopulate
the area.
Do some elephants love the tourists? Yes,
the matriarch of the main herd has been with the park for almost 30 years, and
particularly gets a kick out of little kids.
… and so on, and so on.
2/ Stellenbosch
It’s not a secret that I’m a fan of wine.
Also cheese. Also charcuterie. Also after France I was sure that it was entirely
unrealistic to believe I’d get the chance to live somewhere the wine was
fabulous and reasonably priced again. (Sorry BC, I just don’t like your wine.)
This minimalism thing that wineries have going? It's good. I am a fan of cement floors in this heat, and plants growing in tiny glass containers. |
Ha! Guess again. South African wine is
awesome! Although Stellenbosch itself is a little odd. It is excessively (and
almost exclusively) white, except for the wait staff at non-winery
establishments. There were definitely moments as a mixed group of travellers
where we looked at one another with a bit of a side-eye. Those moments where
you thought to yourself ‘Wow, that was some solid subtle racism and I’m
uncomfortable with this. Am I being way over sensitive or did anyone else pick
up on that?’ … and then you realise that the other two Canadians are also
looking around and yes, yes that was racist.
The happiest of campers! |
So there are definitely problems with the
area, and I want to be clear that there were things I didn’t even notice until
someone pointed them out afterwards. All of that said though, each of us agreed
that we were glad we went, and that we WOULD go back. In particular, the
wineries Simonsig and Niel Ellis blew everywhere else we went out of the water.
The sommeliers were great about picking wines that appealed to all sorts of
palates, and there wasn’t a single wine that all three of us rejected right out
of hand.
Sampling 'The Mint' in one hand, and something else that was actually not very good on the other. Even if you don't like wine though, you should really visit Thelema. The winery itself is beautiful. |
Thelema was also very good, it just wasn’t
off the charts amazing like Simonsig and Neil Ellis. It is the only winery I
begged my travelling companions to let me zip back to in the morning before we
left, because I foolishly didn’t pick up a bottle of ‘The Mint’ when we were
there. Good news? They relented, and I am the happiest of happy campers with my
growing stash of South African wine.
3/ Cape Town
Last but not least, this is the city I was
most curious about in coming here. Joburg is edgy, Pretoria is quiet and
political, Cape Town was supposed to be like the Vancouver of South Africa. It
is, although with fewer pretentions millenials humble-bragging about their
compost heaps, or their latest trip to the organic market. (I say this with love,
Vancouver, I really do. Seriously though, can’t you just recycle quietly?)
Most of my time in Cape Town was spent
eating. I can’t fairly describe my New Years in Cape Town without telling you
about the restaurant scene. Once the other Canadians and I had parted ways, I
had the chance to stay at the Silwood School of Cookery in Rondebosch. This was
not your typical party all night sort of vacation for me, but if you want that,
Long Street and the V&A waterfront have got you covered. This was an
adventure in the morning, and good food in the evening sort of trip. So between
eating, sleeping, and wandering the boutiques downtown, I managed to work in…
Kirstenbosch Gardens, complete with an open
air rock concert, another free-range tortoise, a walk through the canopy on a
really fascinating structure called the 'boomslang' bridge, and more plants than I can name.
Looking down... |
... and going over! |
Hiking out to the Venus Pools with my
fabulous AirBnB host.
On our way to the Venus Pools, which are filled with this violently neon green seaweed that is supposed to nourish your skin and keep you young and beautiful. |
I don't know about hiking all that way to stay young and beautiful, but swimming in a natural pool, heated by the sun, while the Indian Ocean sprays up over the side? That was worth it. |
(Bonus: If you’re in Cape Town you’ve
really got to drop by the Silwood Café for lunch midweek. The school has been
open for three generations now, and I’m kind of in love with everything about
the campus.)
The penguins of Simon’s Town in all their
dorky, fluffy, teenaged glory.
I've been told what that little guy on the left is at least six times, and I still can't remember. He was also checking out the penguins with me. |
The Cape of Good Hope, complete with its
lighthouse and dizzying cliffs dropping straight into the Indian and Atlantic
oceans. (This was slightly anti-climatic, as I was expecting a clear visual
divide between the two. Really, one is cold, and the other is extremely cold;
but there isn’t a clear point where they connect.)
Looking down from right on top of Cape Point, next to the lighthouse. |
Looking up at said lighthouse. |
… and then the food. Oh wow guys, the food.
You know what? I’m just going to include links to the places I really enjoyed eating at, and recommend that you go to all of them and then some.
Bacon on Bree - For that first breakfast and the latte you saw above.
The Honey Badger - For free wifi, good tea, and completely satisfying sandwiches.
Honest Chocolate Café - Chocolate confectionary, and a mean chocolate chai latte. Try one, I promise you won't be disappointed.
Truth Coffee - Not actually for the coffee, but for a huge lunch portion and steampunk everything.
Haas Collective - Right across from Truth. This is where you want to get your coffee.
The Gin Bar - The gins are amazing, but so is the atmosphere. In an old morgue just behind Honest Chocolate. Well worth an evening of your time.
Savoy Cabbage - For the wine. And the tomato tart. And the Eland. Just... all of it.
Homespun by Matt - For beautiful fresh fish, and more wine, and everything served on tiny wooden pallets instead of placements.
Nobu at One & Only - For sushi and fresh fish like you've only dreamed of.
Signal at Cape Grace - This is one of the coolest eating experiences I've ever had. As a solo diner I was invited to do the tasting menu, and it was endlessly cool to actually try food that a chef sat down and tailored from start to finish as an eating experience! Bonus points? The very cool (muslim) lady chef who now runs everything in the kitchen and works with the sommelier trained at Silwood. This was easily one of my favourite nights.
I basically took myself out for dinner every night I could afford to, and I do
not regret it. I guess one of the perks of being stationed in Pretoria is that
I wasn’t tempted to spend any of my living stipend on fancy brunches or nights
out before reaching Cape Town. Or shopping, actually.
The view from just outside Homespun by Matt, which is in a community aptly named 'Table View'. |
The Honey Badger - For free wifi, good tea, and completely satisfying sandwiches.
Honest Chocolate Café - Chocolate confectionary, and a mean chocolate chai latte. Try one, I promise you won't be disappointed.
Truth Coffee - Not actually for the coffee, but for a huge lunch portion and steampunk everything.
Haas Collective - Right across from Truth. This is where you want to get your coffee.
The Gin Bar - The gins are amazing, but so is the atmosphere. In an old morgue just behind Honest Chocolate. Well worth an evening of your time.
Savoy Cabbage - For the wine. And the tomato tart. And the Eland. Just... all of it.
Homespun by Matt - For beautiful fresh fish, and more wine, and everything served on tiny wooden pallets instead of placements.
Nobu at One & Only - For sushi and fresh fish like you've only dreamed of.
Signal at Cape Grace - This is one of the coolest eating experiences I've ever had. As a solo diner I was invited to do the tasting menu, and it was endlessly cool to actually try food that a chef sat down and tailored from start to finish as an eating experience! Bonus points? The very cool (muslim) lady chef who now runs everything in the kitchen and works with the sommelier trained at Silwood. This was easily one of my favourite nights.
Also worth trying? You bet! |
Well done, past me. Well done.